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yo musiclovas, tidebuckas, i am finally back from a busy summer of traveling and reporting, first in the Gulf Mexico, then in the Gulf of Maine. VanityFair.com will soon be putting up an excerpt of a Dispatch on the last 30,000 or so Kemp’s ridley sea turtles, who were already critically endangered before the spill. Now their prospects are even grimmer. For the second piece I traveled to the magical island of Mount Desert and interviewed old-line American conservationists and environmental philanthropists who have the ethos of stewardship and service that has pretty much evaporated from American society at large, and we need to this ethos back, to the extent it was ever there. The gulf between the enormity of the problems modernity has precipitated on the world and its life and the unwillingness of modern society to take responsibility for them and do something about them continues to amaze me.